THE LOWDOWN

Possibly the prettiest pub with the prettiest view in Berkshire, maybe in the South East! A bold claim, but The Pot Kiln in Frilsham is the kind of country pub where you pop in for one drink and end up staying the entire afternoon/ evening.

A stone’s throw from the nearby J13 of the M4 (minus the white noise), you wind down a single-track lane and before you know it, this chocolate-box-pretty inn appears, surrounded by grazing cows and horses – and you find yourself in social Narnia. But a traditional country pub? That it’s not.

After reopening in 2024 following a huge £750,000 facelift that took over six months to complete – and it’s gorgeous. You won’t see pies, burgers, bangers and Yorkshire puds on the menu, instead there’s a pick ‘n’ mix of Spanish plates, inspired by the nation’s northern Basque Country, which lends itself to a tapas-style dining culture – a social ritual rooted in community and conversation. So while surprising it is very much what pub life is all about.

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Dig into crispy pigs ears, confit chicken croquettes, gambas la parilla, grilled friggitelli peppers, Gran Reserva Jamon. But their real show-stoppers are the big sharing mains of carefully tended and cured meat and fish. The 12 hour lamb shoulder, oak smoked chicken or Catalan fish stew are pure indulgence.

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Want to make a weekend of it? Done. Find four gorgeous guest bedrooms outside in the beautifully landscaped gardens, with two offering an additional sofa bed in the room if required. Each comes with a king size bed, Nespresso machine, Bramley soaps, and pure tranquillity. The outdoor Superior Rooms even have with their own terrace to soak up the sun. There are also three Standard Rooms in the pub itself with a brekkie awaiting you in the morning.

THE VIBE

The exterior gives little away – a red brick Victorian building with a line of parasoled al fresco tables (the hottest seats in the house during the summer months). Inside it’s a colour drench dream of earthy tones. Think salted caramel meets salmon pink with leather banquette seating, wood panelling, two-tone curtains, and one stonking, statement antler chandelier. The baskets and rural-inspired art, lean into its farmy surrounds, while a large bunch of dried chillies wink to the foodie Flamenco that awaits. It’s stylish, grown up and welcoming.

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As for the crowd on a cold, wet, Friday night, it was a totally mixed, well-heeled assortment of friend groups, families with older children, and couples out for a romantic jaunt. The lighting was moody, the atmosphere was buzzy but relaxed in equal measure.

The bar sits around the corner from the main restaurant where the open kitchen action takes place and makes for such a cosy little snug. It’s clearly popular with locals, who at the time of my visit, enjoyed a quiet drink or three.

Outside, the wrap around garden and terrace are lovely. Not much call for it in during my wintery visit, but when temperatures hit double digits, it’s rammed. If you want table service dining, you have to nab one of these terrace spots. Elsewhere it’s bar snacks and drinks only – if there was anyway of expanding that I think many of those afternoon drinkers would become evening diners (food for thought). As for the view? You’ll often be met with a cow’s friendly face over the wall, there are horses grazing in fields and deer have been spotted on the edge of woodland. The M4 may be close, but the sense of peace and quiet here is palpable.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Roomy pants on, things are about to get spicy! The menu is curated selection of Tapas, Veg, Mains and Puds for you to mix n match until your trouser button pings. Ease yourself in with the snacks: olives and crispy pig ears (pork scratchings for the squeamish), with a cold glass of Embrujo Verdejo – a Spanish white that is dangerously drinkable and a great alternative to the Sauv Blac safe zone.

The Pot Kiln frilsham tapas tomato bread

To start, we opted for the tomato toast – fresh, light, a little kick, and whisks you off to sun-socked Spain with every mouthful. Loved the grilled friggitelli peppers (like padron but bigger and better) and the iconic Iberico jamon from the Specials Menu never disappoints. Be warned it’s easy to get carried away, but if you into for the long haul, pace yourself. The food was served tapas-style in terracotta crockery – and you have a ring-side seat to all the flaming action in the kitchen. It was a little bit like a chef’s table (minus the epic price tag!)

The Pot Kiln frilsham steak and veg sides

For the main event, we it was time for the big guns. The Pot Kiln’s Salt chamber aged Hereford sirloin to share between two to three, with chips served with jamón, grated idiazabel cheese and bravas seasoning, glazed Roscoff onions and savoy cabbage with bacon ham. The steak is served on the bone and the right side of medium rare for. Melt in the mouth and full of flavour. My husband could have happily eaten the whole thing himself.

The magic happens when you mix in the side. Head Chef Nick Galer (formerly of the Miller of Mansfield, Goring) takes a simple onion and turn it into a culinary event with a chive mayonnaise. Always order the chips – adding crispy jamón bits and finely grated cheese makes your heart sing. The savoy cabbage and bacon jam didn’t disappoint either.

Did we have room for a pud? Absolutely not. Did we have one anyway, yes we did. I had the last slice of Basque cheesecake served with a blood orange sorbet. It looks like a weighty dessert when it arrives, but is creamy and featherweight. The other half opted for the Canutillas de Bilbao (try saying that after two glasses of wine) – a trio of chocolate custard cones that felt like a grown up ice cream – washed down with an Espresso Martini.

It’s worth noting here that the service was incredibly professional and attentive throughout the night. Staff couldn’t do enough for us. From the servers to the chefs, the passion for what’s happening here ebbs through the restaurant like an electric current. It’s infectious.

The definition of a destination pub, The Pot Kiln is an exciting addition to Berkshire’s gastronomical scene. The dishes were excellent, full of flavour and cooked to perfection – and the staff are always en pointe. Open seven days a week, a somewhat rarity these days, and doubles up as both a casual light dinner spot or a proper special night out. And yes, I’m already planning to haul the foodie folk in my life back here to share the Basque Country love. Obsessed.

OUT & ABOUT

A labyrinth of bridleways and walking paths are at your fingertips if you’re keen to explore the local beauty spots (recommended). If you’re making a weekend of it, head into nearby Newbury for boutique shopping and a breezy jaunt up the Kennet and Avon Canal. Newbury Racecourse is in trotting distance, with a range of race days and live music events throughout the year. National Trust hottie Basildon Park (archictectual star of Bridgerton and Pride & Prejudice) isn’t far, neither is Highclere Castle if you’re yearning to relive the magic of Downton Abbey.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

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GOOD FOR: Foodie curious! This is a stunning destination pub that’s worth travelling for. Weekend breakers will love the stylish boutique rooms with woodland views.

NOT FOR: Traditionalists and anyone who doesn’t like sharing food. The Basque-inspired cuisine may be a push too far.

THE DAMAGE: Small plates range from £4.50-£11.50, main dishes are from £22, and the sharing meat plates for two to three people start at £70. Grab a pud from £5.50. If you’re hungry, the price soon adds up.

Words: Rachel Jane

The Pot Kiln, Chapel Ln, Frilsham, Thatcham RG18 0XX. Phone: 01635 201366

A Berkshire pub serving Basque plates and the best view in the South East

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