THE LOWDOWN

Royal Oak Yattendon RED BRICK VITORIAL EXTERIOR WITH WISTERIA CLIMBING ON THE WALLS

If you’re a sucker for a slick country pub, then you’re going to LOVE The Royal Oak, sitting pretty in fairytale Yattendon. You’ll find it slap bang in the centre of this chocolate box West Berkshire village, within Lord Iliffe’s 9,000-acre Yattendon Estate. Despite its rural location, it’s just a short drive from the M4 and A34, yet surrounded by quaint cottages, fields, and woodland. And if you love its focus on sensational British produce that make its unfussy but sublime food sing, it’s also worth seeking out sister pub The Pot Kiln just three minutes up the road.

The Royal Oak describes itself as a locals pub, but the locals in this neck of the woods are whip smart and know good grub when it hits them in the lamb chops. People also travel far and wide to park up in front of the roaring fire. And it gets its fair share of celebs, aristos, and (*coughs) royalty. Spencer and James Matthews sunk a few lemonades the day before Pippa Middleton’s big fat Berkshire wedding, Kate and William have bent an elbow, Ma and Pa Middleton are regulars, and Jeremy Paxman has been spotted too.

THE VIBE

A British beauty. The exterior of The Royal Oak with its old red brick, dominating the village square, suggests a warm, rural charm within. And it doesn’t disappoint. The atmosphere is buzzy whilst simultaneously relaxed and cosy. Where do you want to sit? There are several separate areas to choose from – the old dining area with not one but TWO roaring fires, the bar, three private dining rooms (seating 8, 12 and 60 people), and a lounge with squishy sofas and chairs to sink back a few G&Ts in front of yet another fire.

royal oak yattendon pub with rooms near me

Once you’ve settled in, you’ll struggle to get up. Good job they have 10 stunning boutique rooms (all with gun cabinets) if you want to scoff, quaff and stagger to bed. They’re also previous winners of the coveted Muddy Award for Best Boutique Stay. Quite the badge of honour. And honestly, well deserved.

The flashy, modern extension is a real show-stealer. It’s impossible not to miss the centerpiece of the famous faux tree that changes colour, flora, and fauna, based on each passing season. As for the décor, it’s classy and fairly traditional, but not in a brass and tankards kind of way. Think elegant Farrow & Ball walls, a mix of old photos and modern artwork, mismatched fabrics, and we’re loving the hand painted mural that frames the kitchen pass. It’s in vogue to watch the chefs buzzing about backstage, something the open kitchen complete with clay oven allows you to do.

It’s worth noting, the staff always give guests a welcome as warm as a cashmere blanket whether you’re royalty or a regular. The crowd is a mixed bag too. From young families to couples and groups of friends – there’s something for everyone to be found here.

Summer dreaming? *Puts hand up. When the sun does decide to show face, venture outside and enjoy the gorgeous walled garden, one of my favourite al fresco spots in the county. Safe to say a fair few bottles of wine have been knocked back in the sunshine here over the years.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Did someone say new chef? Yes, they did. Richard Monk is bringing the heat to the kitchen. He previously worked at the Crab & Boar in Chieveley and has tweaked the menu to offer crowd-pleasing elevated pub classics with a gastro twist. The heavy asian influence gone and consistency is the goal. There’s an emphasis on seasonality, so menus change fairly often. Service is friendly, and everything ticks along exactly like a smart countryside bolthole should.

We were here on a busy Sunday. And if there’s anything that can test the true mettle of a kitchen, it’s the roast. But before we talk about the main event, we’ll flirt with a couple of starters, shall we? Oh fine, if you insist. Now, the sticky ribs here are exceptional (also available as a main), served with sesame, spring onion, and chilli. It’s fall off the bone type stuff, with the pork ribs coming from local Vicar’s Game in Ashampstead. The seasoning is well-balanced and utterly delicious. It’s a bit messy to eat, so ease off the feeding frenzy and avoid if you’re in first date territory.

I grabbed the grilled wild Argentinian red prawns with warm focaccia bread and chimichurri butter. Gorgeeeeous. I quite frankly wanted to take a bath in the butter, and the flavour was excellent. And that bread? Wow. Again, as the prawns are served whole, it’s a bit of a fiddly one, but well-worth the peeling struggle for the smooth, buttery and cooked-to-perfection swag you recieve at the end. I’m struggling to think of a more perfect Autumnal dish to scoff away a drizzly October day.

For the main? A traditional roast, obvs. If it’s not better than your own… disaster. Thankfully, not the case here. I’m a sucker for lamb when I see it, so only natural I went for the 12 hour roasted English lamb shoulder. And when I say it came with all the trimmings, I mean ALL the trimmings. The plate was piled up like the Empire State Building with Yorkshire pudding, crispy roast tatties, thick-cut parsnips, carrots, heavenly cauliflower cheese, and a rich braised red cabbage that honestly tasted like Christmas. The portion was generous to say the least. But for £24 a plate, you’d probably expect nothing less.

The meat itself fell apart and was sooo succulent. A jug as big as the gravy one came out filled with mint sauce which I was absolutely here for. It must be said, if you’re part of the three course brigade, it’s worth factoring in as this is a whopper of a roastie.

My fellow foodie, although loves a traditional roast, couldn’t resist the lure of the Indian spiced monkfish, fennel bhajis, chickpea masala, mango, chilli, and coriander salsa. It was something totally different, and honestly as a bit of a fish snob, the bar was high. Thankfully, it brought it home. The chunk of monkfish was hugeee, perfectly cooked, and apparently absolutely divine. He did love the curried assortment that accompanied it, although did say after a while it did start to get a bit samey. Though, would he order it again? In a heartbeat.

Who fancies dessert? Not even a question is it really. After a 20 minute break to deflate my now bulging stomach, I was ready to satisfy the sweet tooth. There were lots tickling my fancy, but in the end, we both settled on the chocolate and Amaretto tart with honeycomb ice cream. The pains of overstuffing myself with roast potatoes soon became a distant memory as I practically inhaled the thing. I loved it, and the ice cream was particularly delish.

During the meal, I saw a few of the apple and crumble sundaes floating about which looked seriously epic too. I loved that they had proper pub puds on the menu with lighter options for anyone on the fence. It’s hard to resist.

The meal was rounded up with a latte and safe to say the rest of my Sunday was spent sleeping off my food coma. If you like to make sure the wines are up to scratch before you dine, rest assured the list here is pretty fantastic. I got a glass of the Malbec to go with my roast which was delicious. The mocktails are well-worth your while too. Go for the berry crush or the elderflower with ginger beer, cucumber and mint.

OUT & ABOUT

Basildon Park National Trust property near Reading Berkshire

There are loads of pretty walks to work up an appetite or walk off your overindulgence. Ask any of the staff and they’ll tell you where to go (er, not literally). Basildon Park National Trust (architectural star of Bridgerton and Pride & Prejudice) and Newbury Racecourse are both nearby. Highclere Castle is a bit further but still worth a visit despite Downton Abbey now gathering dust in the TV archives. If you think you’re a good shot (or fancy having a go), The Royal Oak can organise shooting parties on Yattendon Estate or clay pigeon shooting at the Royal Berkshire Shooting School. It’s a popular thing to do and explains the gun cabinets in all 10 bedrooms.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: It’s a lovely pub for a pint, lazy family supper (the pizzas are very good) and eating out with family friends. It’s catnip to city slickers looking to escape to the country. Dog-friendly, child-friendly – it’s cosier than cashmere.

Not for: Those on a budget. Prices are a nudge above average. If you are after starchy formality or off-the-wall quirkiness you’ll not find it here.

££: Starters from £10. Mains are between £17.50 – £33, and you can grab a pud for around a tenner.

The Royal Oak, The Square, Yattendon RG18 0UG Tel: 01635 201325.

Review: The Royal Oak, Yattendon

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