THE LOWDOWN

A stone’s throw from the nearby M4 (minus the white noise), saunter your way down a winding, single track lane and you’ll find The Pot Kiln sitting chocolate box pretty amid a herd of grazing cows and horses. It’s the kind of stuff fairytales are made of. But a traditional country pub? That it’s not. After reopening in June 2024 following a hugeee £750,000 facelift that took over six months to complete, The Pot Kiln decided it wanted to do things a bit differently.

Now, you can expect a pick ‘n’ mix of Spanish plates, inspired by the nation’s northern Basque Country, which lends itself to a tapas-style dining culture. Basically, it’s big on sharing and it’s big on meat. Dig into wild boar scotch eggs, salt cod croquetas, gambas, lemon & chili, red tuna tartare, and lamb chuletas. But their real show-stoppers are the giant platters of carefully tended and cured meat and fish. The 12 hour lamb shoulder or Galician blond “txuletón” – aged Basque rib of beef are pure indulgence.

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A foodie pub through and through. Why? Well, the kitchen is literally the star of the show. Get yourself a front row seat and watch the chefs work their magic, plating up their epic creations and working the impressive charcoal fired parilla grill and brick oven. Practically everything is cooked right before your very eyes.

The Pot Kiln’s bar has enjoyed a big extension, plus there’s a stunning private dining room, and impressive new outdoor pizza oven. Don’t miss Sunday evening pizzas – best enjoyed on the sweeping and south-facing outdoor terrace with stonking countryside views.

Don’t worry, the beer is still very much of the classic British pub variety, plus you can grab simple pub snacks and locally sourced ingredients too. Walkers with pooches are welcome in the bar area but must be kept on leads. Gluten-free and plant-based menus are also available.

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Want to make a weekend of it? Done. Find four gorgeous guest bedrooms outside in the beautifully landscaped gardens, with two offering an additional sofa bed in the room if required. Each comes with a king size bed, Nespresso machine, Bramley soaps, and pure tranquillity. The outdoor Superior Rooms even have with their own terrace to soak up the sun. There’s also three Standard Rooms in the pub itself with a breaky awaiting you in the morning.

THE VIBE

Stumble across this beauty while rambling around the countryside, and you’ve practically hit the jackpot. After its delicious refurb, the results speak for themselves. It’s a colour drench dream of earthy tones. Think salted caramel meets salmon pink with leather banquette seating, wood panelling, two-tone curtains, and one stonking statement light in the form of wooden antlers. I love the rattan baskets and countryside cool prints adorning the walls – fully leaning into its farmy surrounds. The entire feel of the place is breezy, stylish, and very grown up. And if the food’s half as tasty as the décor, it’s on for a winner, winner.

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As for the crowd that flocked to the pub on a Thursday night, it was a totally mixed, well-heeled assortment of friend groups, families with older children, and couples out for a romantic jaunt. The use of the mood-setting lamps on the tables were very in vogue. The vibe was buzzy, but relaxed in equal measure. It just generally had such a lovely feel, and is clearly a restaurant that places social eating at its core.

The bar is separate from the main restaurant where the open kitchen action takes place and makes for such a cosy little snug. It’s clearly popular with locals, who at the time of my visit, enjoyed a quiet drink or two. Something we also partook in pre-dinner. Not much convincing required really.

Outside, the wrap around garden and terrace was equally enticing. However, the mizzy, fresh autumn evening didn’t quite have the same appeal factor as a mid-summer blitzer. There’s plenty of seating and I can only imagine how popular this is going to be come next spring and summer. The views over the cattle fields and leafy woodlands are just stunning. The M4 may be close, but the sense of peace and quiet here is palpable.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Fire up the coals, it’s about to get hot, hot, hot. The menu offers a sprawling list of everything from sharer small plates that double up as starters, to sides, solo mains, and huge sharing meat platters. Our lovely waitress made sure to explain the concept to us and then, the ball was in our court. To start, we opted for the tomato toast, wild boar scotch egg, gambas, lemon & chili, and red tuna tartare to share. The food was served tapas-style in terracotta crockery. And getting to watch all the action unfold right before my eyes in the kitchen was honestly so exciting. It was a little bit like a chef’s table (minus the epic price tag!)

The tuna tartare was excellent. Fresh, light, flavoursome, and a flavour I don’t think I’ve ever really had before. I’m a hugeee tomato toast fan so expectations were through the roof for The Pot Kiln’s take. Definitely did not disappoint. The tomato relish was incredibly fresh, juicy, and a little different from your regular tapas stuff. I couldn’t get enough.

The wild boar scotch egg was a bit of a wild card for me, but I absolutely loved it. The egg was actually quail’s egg and the flavour of the meat was lovely and rich. Begrudgingly, I still had to share this one. Last but not least was the gambas prawns. Served traditionally in their full form, the deshelling process was slightly fiddly. But hey, it’s half the fun, right? There wasn’t a lot of sauce on the dish, but I did really enjoy the spicy, oily flavour.

Next, it was time for the big guns. The Pot Kiln’s whole meat platters are made for sharing between two to three. But to be honest, you could probably get away with four when ordering a load of other dishes on the side. We went for the 12-hour lamb shoulder which was just heaven-sent. It simply fell apart. So succulent and literally, melted in the mouth. The fresh mint sauce that accompanied it was equally glorious. More mellow than the shop bought stuff and paired beautifully with the meat flavour.

It’s worth noting here that the service was incredibly professional and attentive throughout the night. Staff couldn’t do enough for us. From the servers to the chefs, the passion for what’s happening here ebbs through the restaurant like an electric current. It’s infectious.

On the side, we grabbed a PK chips comprised of jamón, melted galmesan, bravas seasoning, plus two veggies dishes – charred leeks and romesco, and beans and peas. The latter (pictured above) stole the show for me. The sauce was a bit like garlic aioli and the whole thing was gloriously buttery. I did very much enjoy the chips, but think I may have preferred them if they were more of a roast potato. Didn’t stop me demolishing the lot though. As for the charred leeks? Chef’s kiss.

After stuffing our faces with platters of meat and veg that could have fed a football team, a much needed half an hour break ensued. Naturally, the time was used to sit back and work our way through the drinks list. Their mini cocktail offering is delicious. I got the dandelion gin, elderflower, and lemon which was so refreshing and had me wildly clinging on to that summer feeling. If not for designated driver duties (grrr) I would have happily sunk a dozen of these. On to the mocktails I went. The grenadine, soda, lime, and mint, practically a Shirley Temple, was lovely. Meanwhile my foodie partner in crime went for a Rioja (when in Spain, ey) from the fab wine list.

When we finally mustered up the strength for pudding (it’s a hard life), the canutillas de Bilbao – chocolate custard cream cones and Ossau Irati (sheep’s cheese) with flapjack and fresh honey had our names all over it. I noticed a few people going for the cones so it’s clearly a popular option. And I can see why. Just delightful and oozed chocolatey and lemony goodness. The cheese was very different, and while I wouldn’t have put flapjack with blue cheese before, I would now. It all paired together amazingly, and I liked how the honey wasn’t overly sweet. I couldn’t recommend enough.

Ultimately, this is what you call a destination pub. The Pot Kiln makes for such an exciting addition to Berkshire’s gastronomical scene. Everything was bang on the money, from the quality of the food to the service and ambience. Clearly I’m not alone. Our waitress told me people have been flocking through the doors since the pub reopened, some travelling for hours to get a piece of the culinary action. The Pot Kiln is also open seven days a week, a somewhat rarity these days, and doubles up as both a casual light dinner spot or a proper special night out. And yes, I’m already planning to haul the foodie folk in my life back here to share the Basque Country love. Obsessed.

OUT & ABOUT

A labyrinth of bridleways and walking paths are at your fingertips if you’re keen to explore the local beauty spots (recommended). If you’re making a weekend of it, head into nearby Newbury for boutique shopping and a breezy jaunt up the Kennet and Avon Canal. Newbury Racecourse is in trotting distance, with a range of race days and live music events throughout the year. National Trust hottie Basildon Park (archictectual star of Bridgerton and Pride & Prejudice) isn’t far, neither is Highclere Castle if you’re yearning to relive the magic of Downton Abbey.

THE VERDICT

Good for: Foooodies! This is an excellent destination pub that’s well worth travelling for. Weekend breakers will love the trendy boutique rooms with woodland views.

Not for: The hard-to-please. The Basque-inspired cuisine may be a push too far from the beige for fussy palates.

The damage: Worth. Every. Penny. Small plates range from £5 – £12, main dishes are from £21, and the sharing meat plates for two to three people start at £50. Grab a pud from £5.

Words by Ellie Ball

The Pot Kiln, Chapel Ln, Frilsham, Thatcham RG18 0XX. Phone: 01635 201366

Review: The Pot Kiln, Frilsham

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