THE LOWDOWN

Gastropub The Duke in Sunninghill pub where to eat near windsor

A smile, good humour, and a little smattering of cheekiness come as standard with your order at The Duke – a gastropub that’s big on passion and even bigger on taste. Headed by husband and wife team, Andras and Kim, the duo took over the running of the pub back in September 2021, with Andras personally donning the chef whites himself. But with his resumé spanning 20 years working both front and back of house in a catalogue of top establishments (including some with those coveted shiny stars), honestly, there’s no better man for the job.

The pub’s family ethos extends to every area of the pub, from its homely feel to its pinpoint focus on serving only the very best and freshest of ingredients. Practically everything you see is handmade on site with exception of few things, including the bread which is from Rex Bakery just down on the main high street. The venison is sourced from nearby Stonor Park, and other meats come from local farms.

As for the menu, it’s diverse. Enjoy a number of traditional pub classics or opt for a handful of their small plates to go at it tapas-style. There’s deli sharing boards, salads, pastas, and impressive gastro mains. The children’s menu will appease even the fussiest of eaters, there’s an impressive pud selection, plant-based options, plus a range of lunchtime specials like sandwiches, wraps, and tacos. Insider scoop: their roast is like catnip for locals who flock to the pub every Sunday to secure a spot. Andras tells me it gets buuuusy, so if you fancy it, best to book ahead.

The Duke is pretty spacious so they can also cater for large private events too. On the Thursday I visited, their legendary two for one cocktail deal was well and truly on (excellent value for money), as it is every Thu, Fri, and Sat at 4 – 7pm. No encouragement needed really.

THE VIBE

Gastropub The Duke in Sunninghill pubs near windsor

Tucked away in a well-heeled residential labyrinth in Sunninghill, The Duke has huge curb appeal and a real locals local feel. On arrival, the crowd was a mix. There were convivial groups of friends dropping by for a post-work tipple, couples making the most of the cocktail deal, plus families with small children grabbing a bite before bedtime.

The place had a really buzzy and generally just nice vibe about it. It was very casual and somewhere you feel can just take a breath, kick back, and relax. I imagine it’s a popular pitstop for day trippers beelining it the nearby LEGOLAND or Windsor for a family outing. And honestly, it’s the perfect place for a refuel.

As for the interiors, a chichi London gastropub it is not. But all the better for it. Expect a light, airy, and modern space that fully leans into the deliciously traditional pub vibe. Think old school prints on the wall and teal panelling. The bar is by far the coolest feature – a mosaic of various old drawers stitched together, complete with a mish mash of knobs and handles. It’s a pub clearly going for the rustic look with its pick ‘n’ mix of chair styles and seating types. It’s effortlessly cool. Like one of those people who have a trendy edge without even trying.

Outside, find a sizable and inviting garden and terrace which I can only imagine is a buzzing hive of activity come summer. It’s also worth noting there is ample parking onsite (albeit a bit of a tight squeeze in places).

SCOFF & QUAFF

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Hungry and raring to get stuck in? Let’s get this bread. Literally. My brother, who’d joined me for the feast, opted for the king prawns ‘pil pil’ on a ciabatta base, accompanied by tomato salsa, spring onion and chilli. Beautifully presented and judging by the murmurs of delight, it was clearly as good as it looked. The prawns were cooked to perfection and the flavour was pure garlic heaven. Always a good sign when it’s inhaled in approximately three seconds flat.

The scallops had my name all over them, and my god, was it a generous portion. Too often have I gone for these and felt my heart sink a bit when about three pea sized lumps arrive on a plate. Not these. They were huge, and again, perfectly cooked. I loved the sweet undertones of the butternut squash, and the healthy kick of the spinach was a welcome addition. Overall, a lovely flavour.

Because obviously it’s rude just to go for one starter, we also shared the halloumi fries from the small plates section which went down a treat. The drinks and wine list were equally tantalising. I got a tequila sunrise which was giving all the holiday vibes, meanwhile, bro got a Bira Moretti. The drinks list is extensive, and honestly, I could have happily sampled every cocktail. A bit later I tried the elderflower spritz off the mocktails and a fruit punch. Delish.

Mains were next. I couldn’t leave without trying the local carved Stonor Park venison steak, served pretty and pink. From the way the food tastes and is presented, it’s clear Andras is deeply passionate about the food he is making. And of course, it tastes all the better for it.

The dish was accompanied by rosemary and thyme fondant potato, summer squash, fine beans, and port and blueberry jus. Wow, wow, wow. The fondant potato was a real show stealer. Crispy on the outside and oh-so buttery in the middle. I need the recipe for that, stat. The venison was gorgeously tender, and again it must be said, the portion was very decent. Worth factoring in if you’re going large with a three-course whopper.

My fellow foodie grabbed the Loch Duart Salmon Supreme which came with garden pea and spinach risotto, baby carrots, summer squash and pumpkin. Simple but delicious.

Throughout the meal, the service was friendly and incredibly attentive. There had been a last-minute staff illness on the night, but even amid the initial madness, our waiter was like a machine. Hats off.

I was on the fence about putting up my white flag and surrendering. But the dessert list is ridiculously tempting. And let’s be real, this is me we’re talking about, and do I ever turn down a sweet treat? Hell no!

The opposite side of the table saw the arrival of a soft warm chocolate brownie with triple chocolate ice cream and a hazelnut crumb. Meanwhile, I couldn’t resist the signature apple pie with salted caramel ice cream. No exaggeration when I say the apple pie is up there as one of the best I’ve ever had. Warming, delicate, and slightly salty. It hit the sweet spot without going overload and the crème fraîche pastry was utterly magnificent. Andras makes it completely from scratch with the apples coming from his own garden. Doesn’t get fresher than that, ey?

I only had one complaint. And that was that I wish I had more room. My own doing, I know, I know. But I don’t regret a thing. An absolutely delicious meal. But take it from me, you’ll want to leave space for a pud.

I managed to grab Andras for a quick chinwag once the mad rush backstage had subsided, and of course I got the inside line on what really went into that magic apple pie. Shhh, a lady never tells. The food was exceptional and evidently the emphasis on sourcing local ingredients really does pay off. Andras told me his ultimate goal would be to take The Duke completely farm to fork -something he’s hoping to do in the next two years. And I’m totally here for it.

OUT & ABOUT

The Duke is surrounded by rip-roaring days out. So, what do you fancy? LEGOLAND Windsor is just 10 minutes down the road, and Windsor is less than 8 miles. Wander the Long Walk, or hobble over the historic cobbles and drink in the history. There’s loads to see: the famous wonky house, the castle’s blue post box, England’s shortest street and, if timed just right, the Changing of the Guard. The Royal Arcade is great for shopping – think Whistles, Mango, Zara, and Mint Velvet. Plus, you’re a short walk from the river and Eton College.

THE VERDICT

Good for: Foodies who love a casual and truly local experience. From the atmosphere to the ingredients, this is an excellent gastropub that puts people and its produce front and centre.

Not for: Those who like style over substance. If you’re gunning for the uber cool and cutting-edge, you won’t find it here.

The damage: Average for a gastropub of this calibre. Starters from £4.25, mains from £15.95, sides from £4.50, and you can grab a pud for £6.25.

By Ellie Ball

The Duke, 2 Upper Village Rd, Sunninghill, Ascot, SL5 7AG. Telephone: 01344 623919

Gastropub review: The Duke in Sunninghill

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