THE LOWDOWN

Chocolate box pretty and seven Michelin stars twinkling like Orion’s Belt, Bray is a Berkshire foodie hotspot that would entice even the most hardened critic out of the London drag. While its swanky fine dining inhabitants grab all the headlines, this pretty riverside village also boasts an understated gastropub with a reputation for great food that’s a little easier on the arteries (and your bank balance). Say hello to The Crown at Bray.

This humble, laid-back gastropub that dons two prestigious AA Rosettes is headed by Chef Scott Smith who also oversees The Oarsman in Marlow (a notable name on the Michelin guide). He has a wealth of experience in the chef world, having donned his whites at numerous Michelin-starred restaurants across the country. Yep, safe to say he’s a deft hand in the gastronomical department.

Alongside his team, Scott works tirelessly to create crowd-pleasing, seasonal dishes that are wonderfully British and a little bit different from your regular pub grub. The Sunday lunches are legendary, you can grab takeaway fish and chips every Friday, light lunches, and a simple kids menu will appeal to parents fearing the inevitable food fight when dining out.

THE VIBE

This 16th century pub is deliberately traditional on the inside. It lives and breathes history, but there’s none of that musty feel you sometimes get with the olde-worlde types. The Crown embraces the deliciously pubby vibes – think low ceilings, exposed oak beams, open fires, and a charming higgledy-piggledy flow. In such an historic setting as Bray, it just oozes classic British romanticism and makes for a totally cosy spot, rain or shine. I particularly love the pistachio hues and assortment of artwork peppering the walls.

The building feels Tudor (though that’s total guesswork) with white render and black wooden external beams. Apparently King Charles II used to stop in for a beer while he was galloping off to see his mistress Nell Gwyn. Naughty. For such a small village, it really does have such a saucy history with The Royals.

The garden? Well, that’s a different story. With an outdoor bar and kitchen, come summer, it’s an oasis for al fresco eating, drinking, and loafing on repeat. The garden is hugeeee. At the time of my visit, a rare, stonkingly warm evening, it was teeming with casual eaters and drinkers revelling in the best of the British weather. It’s clearly a social magnet as lots of big groups of friends, as well as families and couples had come out the woodworks to enjoy the fruits of their local watering hole. Pssst, it gets the evening sun on full blast.

There’s always been a casual coolness to The Crown at Bray and nothing has changed. It’s intimate, buzzy, and has that true intimate feel. Inside, tables are well-spaced and there’s dedicated areas for casual drinkers dropping by with their pooches or foodies in for a three-course extravaganza.

SCOFF AND QUAFF

The menu is a classic offering that keeps it simple while delivering on quality and flavour. It’s unfussy, and it’s the ingredients that Chef Scott really lets shine. There’s a pinpoint focus on local produce. Think Windsor Estate venison, Chiltern Venison, and Bill’s lamb from the Hambleden Valley. There’s even plans to work with a gardener at Danesfield House to grow veggies. Tasty.

Parched? Well, there’s a large number of beers and lagers available on tap, including the much raved about Rebellion Brewery, based in nearby Marlow, and an excellent selection of wines. If you fancy a cocktail, they can do that too. With my meal I opted for a glass of the Artesa ‘Crianza’ Tempranillo Rioja red, meanwhile my fellow grazer went for the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc MOKO. Both deeeeelicious and paired so well with our chosen dishes.

So what was tickling my fancy? The bread board and sea salt butter for a start. Always a great way to kick off a meal – this certainly whetted the palette just right. For starters, I couldn’t resist the lull of the The Crown Prawn Cocktail with Seeded Sourdough Bread. It’s a certified retro classic in the realm of British cuisine, and something I haven’t had for years. It didn’t disappoint. It was super creamy and incredibly fresh. They didn’t hold back on the prawns which were chunky, juicy, and just divine. Yep, more bread, but honestly, I can’t get enough.

On the other side of the table, the Heirloom Tomato Salad with Goats Cheese and Chive was all too happily tucked into. I was told the flavours married beautifully and again, the freshness of the tomatoes were glorious. The perfect summer dish.

Next on the culinary conveyor belt was the dish I was practically salivating all over the menu about. The Grilled Half Lobster in the Shell with Fries and Heirloom Tomatoes was singing its siren song to me. No dodgy ending here though, the meat in the tail lifted up in one perfect lump, and my god was it juicy. Such a great flavour and cooked to perfection. The salad presented on top of the lobster was velvet smooth, and don’t even get me started on the chips. Cripsy, fluffy, and gorgeous.

Also from the grill, my accompanying foodie opted for the 32 day aged flat iron steak which came with fries, rocket and parmesan Salad, and a lovely pot of béarnaise sauce. Another dish that just got it right.

Room for pudding? Of course I did! And what screams British summer more than a Strawberry Eton Mess? The Crown version came topped with pistachio nuts and quite frankly, it was a creamy dream. Sunshine in a glass and the perfect end to a glorious meal.

Across from me, the 65% Dark Chocolate Mousse, White Chocolate and Cherry went down a storm. It was chocolatey, nutty, and a real sweet treat. The mousse itself was incredibly light (perhaps almost too light), but the cherries accompanied it really well, giving it an almost Black Forest gateau vibe.

Overall, it was a meal that quite frankly had me feeling a bit giddy with joy by the end of it. The service was friendly and attentive, and it just had that real special feeling about it, despite the fact The Crown at Bray is very much somewhere you could happily pop out for both a casual midweek meal or a special occasion. You’d be hard pressed not to leave here as one happy customer.

OUT & ABOUT

While Bray is famed for its gluttony glory, there’s so much more to do than simply stuff your face (however much it pains me to say). Head just around the corner to the adrenaline junkie dreamland of Bray Lake. The watersports centre here is brilliant (paddleboarding is highly recommended). There’s also windsurfing, fishing, and boating to name a few. Perhaps best done before you tuck into a fillet steak, Bray Lake is the main jump site for UK Bungee Club, plus there’s woodland segway tours and lots of walks. Additionally, Windsor is just down the road for a Royal saunter, culture, and shopping.

THE VERDICT:

Good for: Foodies! The excellent pub grub here feels like a real treat and the quality speaks for itself. Families will also love the laid back vibe and simple kids menu.

Not for: Design mavens who like to dine in style. It’s a setting that’s pubby and proud. You won’t find glass chandeliers and all the glitzy modcons here.

The damage: Reasonable for a gastropub of this calibre. Starters from £8.50, mains from £17.75, sides are around £6, and puds are £9.75.

Words by Ellie Ball

The Crown at Bray, High Street, Bray, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2AH. Tel: 01628 621936.