Berkshire


<h2 class="wp-block-heading">WHAT? WHERE?&nbsp;</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/joao-reguengos-IJq0V8tcbqc-unsplash.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55657" /></figure>



<p>Just over two hours’ flight from Heathrow, Europe’s most westerly capital has woken from its Covid slumber to offer a cultural shot in the arm to anyone looking for a relaxed and slightly bohemian city break. Pack your trainers, because Lisbon stretches from harbour-side plaza Parca do Comércio in the south, all the way to Castelo de Sao Jorge (Saint George’s Castle) on the highest of the city’s seven hills, with steep and winding cobbled streets to navigate in-between. &nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">THE VIBE</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/claudio-schwarz-K3XGEoZgA0s-unsplash.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55659" /></figure>



<p>Vibrant and buzzing: streets are lined with cafes, bars and boutiques to browse. I found cool neighbourhoods to wander through such as Baixa &amp; Rossi (a downtown area with shops and grand plazas);&nbsp;Barrio Alto &amp; Chiado (great for vintage, vinyl and the oldest bookshop in the world!) and&nbsp;Av. de Liberdade (the Champs Élysées of Lisbon) with designer stores at designer prices including Prada, Giorgio Armani, Boggi, and Golden Goose.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS&nbsp;</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/castelo-2.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55660" /><figcaption>Credit: Visit Lisboa</figcaption></figure>



<p>Spend any time in Lisbon and you’ll soon hear locals mention the great earthquake of 1755, when much of the city was flattened. However magnificent&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="http://castelodesaojorge.pt/site/en/plan-your-visit/" target="_blank">Castle de Sao Jorge</a>&nbsp;survived and is definitely a highlight today, with its beautiful citadel to walk around (a real-life fairytale castle kids young and old will love) and views of the Tagus River and&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.lisbon.net/25th-april-bridge" target="_blank">25 de Abril Suspension bridge</a>&nbsp;(the longest in Europe, pub quizzers).</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/thumbnail_view-of-Ponte-25-Abril-Bridge-CREDIT-Visit-Lisboa.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55661" /><figcaption>Credit: Visit Lisboa</figcaption></figure>



<p><a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.museuarqueologicodocarmo.pt/info_en.html" target="_blank">Convento do Carmo</a>, a ruined church with beautiful open-air, ethereal arches and an archaeological museum inside, is another must-see.</p>



<p>Close by, the&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.lisbon.net/santa-justa-lift" target="_blank">Elevador de Santa Justa</a>&nbsp;built by Raul Mesnier, Gustave Eiffel’s apprentice, is an engineering marvel that lifts you high above the roofline for jaw-dropping city views from the viewing platform – get ready to elbow all the Instagrammers out of the way for your own #ILoveLisbon shot.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/thumbnail_parque-eduardo-vii.CREDIT-Visit-Lisboajpg.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55662" /><figcaption>Credit: Visit Lisboa</figcaption></figure>



<p>If you’re craving a bit of peace and quiet, hang out in Parque Eduardo VII with its beautiful city views, or visit some of the cool galleries and museums, such as&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="http://www.museuartecontemporanea.gov.pt/" target="_blank">Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporanea do Chiado</a>&nbsp;(best for modern art) and&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://gulbenkian.pt/museu/" target="_blank">Museu Calouste Gulbenikan</a>&nbsp;(best for ancient &amp; decorative arts).</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">SCOFF &amp; QUAFF</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/BairroDoAvillez_Entrada_1_Credito_GrupoJoseAvillez.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55678" /></figure>



<p>Foodies should make a beeline for&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.bairrodoavillez.pt/en/" target="_blank">Barrio de Avillez</a>,&nbsp;a culinary ‘neighbourhood’ that’s the brainchild of Jose Avillez, Portugal’s most famous Michelin-starred chef, which offers different dining environments under one roof to tantalise the taste buds; think gourmet deli, seafood bar, pizza parlour and excellent cocktail bar&nbsp;– book ahead!</p>



<p>The&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.timeoutmarket.com/lisboa/en/" target="_blank">Time Out Market</a>&nbsp;is also a no brainer – think food hall but not as you know it, with a curated selection of over 40 of the city’s best restaurants rated by&nbsp;an independent panel of local journalists and food critics.&nbsp;Must-try are Confraria for sushi, Manteigaria for pastéis de nata (don’t forget a sprinkle of cinnamon) and Miguel Castro e Silva for sardines, a local specialty.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/Taberna_HambuguerVegan_2_Credito_GrupoJoseAvillez.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55679" /><figcaption>Delish bites at Barrio de Avillez</figcaption></figure>



<p>I also loved&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.jncquoi.com/" target="_blank">JUNcQUOI</a>&nbsp;(Ave. De Liberdade), a very cool DeliBar&nbsp;filled with Lisbon’s ‘beautiful’ people eating ‘beautiful’ food (lobster, oysters and local wines) at the marble-topped counter.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/Screenshot-2022-04-14-at-09.34.40.png" alt="" class="wp-image-55669" /><figcaption>JUNcQUOI DeliBar</figcaption></figure>



<p>For a relaxing late lunch off-the-beaten-track, my favourite spot was the&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://terracoeditorial.pt/" target="_blank">Editorial Terrace</a>&nbsp;at the top of Pollox department store. Exiting the lift I was hit by breathtaking views across Lisbon’s terracotta roofline and then tucked into a fantastic board of Portuguese charcuterie, cheese and cold fresh beers.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Screenshot-2022-05-04-at-12.37.18.png" alt="" class="wp-image-56285" /></figure>



<p>Or for a rooftop bar more under-the-radar try&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.instagram.com/parklisboa/a?hl=en" target="_blank">Park Bar</a>, tucked away at the top of a car park with industrial, hipster vibes and wow-factor views of the suspension bridge (especially at sunset). Or&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.toporestaurante.pt/?l=pt" target="_blank">Topo Bar</a>&nbsp;(above) with its cool neon signage and retro arcade machines. Even more of a hidden gem (it took me 20 minutes of going up and down the lift to realise I was in the right place), you’ll find it at the top of Centro Comercial Martim Moniz, an unassuming shopping centre at the end of the No. 28 Tram route.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/a83e8165-1f37-460f-a396-0605b9dcfbcc_20170720_215909-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55671" /><figcaption>Meal and music at Fado em Si</figcaption></figure>



<p>And finally, you won’t find a more authentic experience than a meal at&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://fadoemsi.com/language/en/" target="_blank">Fado em Si</a>, a restaurant and bar nestled in the walls of the Castel de Sao Jorge in the Old Town. Our hearty supper of mountain lamb stew and six-hour slow oven-baked veal washed down with the local Vino Verdi was accompanied by musicians on acoustic guitars singing heartfelt Fado songs (folk music). Initially local diners sang along quietly to themselves, and even though I had no idea what they were saying I used my best pre-school phonics and joined in – by the end of the night we were all singing our hearts out!</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">WHERE TO STAY</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/Heritage-Avenida-Liberdade_Lisboa-Room-1000x667.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55647" /></figure>



<p><a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://lisbonheritagehotels.com/heritage-avenida-liberdade-hotel/" target="_blank">Heritage de Liberdade Hotel</a>&nbsp;is a 45-bedroom that’s walking distance from all the key city sights. It’s a tasteful mix of traditional and contemporary design with an inviting lobby of elegant floor-to-ceiling windows, original Portuguese tiled walls and a cute old wooden reception desk, a former herbal dispensary kiosk. After a long day sightseeing the complimentary teas, coffees, pasteis de natas (Portuguese custard tarts) and port wine snifter were very welcome. Our junior suite on the fifth floor was really spacious with a lovely comfy bed and squishy deep feather-filled pillows.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/Heritage-Avenida-Liberdade_Jet-Pool.by-Ana-RodriguesJPG.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55648" /></figure>



<p>There’s also a gym and plunge pool – a great addition if you want to work off some of those delicious Lisbon pastries!&nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">HOW TO SEE IT BEST</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/andre-lergier-anrBiSm4iFQ-unsplash.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55658" /></figure>



<p>Take your trainers and brace yourself for some steep hills – my stilettos never made it out of my suitcase! You can walk the sights pretty easily using your phone’s SatNav, or hop on the famous No. 28 Tram which navigates the main city spots in vintage style. Go early morning or late afternoon to avoid queuing. If you’re feeling flush, or have a bad case of blisters, try hiring an electric scooter (Lisbon’s equivalent to a Boris Bike) – they’re scattered around the city and a fun way to zip around. Alternatively try a TukTuk – at €60 for one-hour with a tour guide included it’s a bit pricy, but it’s a&nbsp; fun way to explore the back roads and see all the best views and parks away from the throng.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">THE LOCAL LOWDOWN</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/diego-garcia-CVZ0y7APRtU-unsplash-2.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-55674" /></figure>



<p>If you’re taken by the beauty of&nbsp;the colourful Portuguese ‘azulejo’ tiles on the city’s townhouses, then book an afternoon workshop at&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.lisboasocialpress.com/our-story" target="_blank">Lisbon Social Press</a>, hosted by Tom Maryniak. A former London artist, Tom has created a budding art community and studio hosting a range of workshops for every level and you’ll be pleased to hear some involve alcohol!&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/A448A7ED-E10D-40C8-8516-C204365B6421.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-55675" /></figure>



<p>I tried my hand at designing tiles and litho printing and whether you’re good at drawing or not is irrelevant (I’m terrible!), as Tom showed us how to draw and carve our tile designs, mix oil paints and print them by hand to make our own artworks, postcards and greeting cards – the perfect souvenirs to take home. It’s a great activity for couples, small groups including hen parties (did I mention the booze?), or with kids aged 11+.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">THE MUDDY VERDICT:</h2>



<p><strong>GOOD FOR</strong>: An active city break for couples, small groups and families with teenagers who are happy to go with the flow and wander the streets discovering boutiques, cafes, and Portuguese culture at every turn.</p>



<p><strong>NOT GOOD FOR:</strong>&nbsp;Those less physically able and young families with toddlers and buggies as there are a lot of cobbles and hills to contend with!</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">HOW TO GET THERE</h2>



<p>There are daily flights from Heathrow to Lisbon with&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.flytap.com/en-gb/" target="_blank">TAP Air Portugal</a>&nbsp;from £235 return per person.&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://lisbonheritagehotels.com/heritage-avenida-liberdade-hotel/" target="_blank">Heritage de Liberdade Hotel</a>&nbsp;standard double room from £125.63 per night, including breakfast until midday and entry to several museums.&nbsp;</p>


Sunshine escape: 48 hours in Lisbon!

You may also like