THE LOWDOWN

If you’ve hiding under a rock, the Hinds Head in Bray has been in Heston Blumenthal’s culinary stable since 2004. The building dates back to the 15th century – first established as a hunting lodge, later became a coaching inn, and then a pub hosting Prince Phillip’s stag do and Princes Diana enjoyed lunches here with Princes William and Harry when they were at Eton College. Today it’s an elegant gastropub with one Michelin star (awarded first in 2014) and a menu of next level pub classics and comforting British dishes with foodie flair. Psst, it’s also just been awarded the prestigious Great British Pub of the Year for food. No mean feat.

THE VIBE

heston hinds head pub bray — Nothing stuffy, but lots of luxury. Like dining with in your besties country house (if they happen to be one of Bray super-rich).

Some may think it’s a restaurant pretending to play pub, but The Hind’s Head wears it’s culinary accolades lightly, creating an unpretentious and warm environment for drinks, snacks of a three course thriller. The Hind’s Head offers what it calls ‘traditional British cuisine’ that reintroduces some historic dishes with a hit of Heston theatre. But to be honest, the ‘pub’ is more like a batty uncle’s country house, serving exceptional cocktails every bit as surprising as the food. The Tudor building (famously owned by the unprincipled Vicar of Bray) was given a spectacular makeover and Executive Chef Pete Grey (a Heston veteran), has made the kitchen his own. So expect Heston’s DNA, but credit must be given to this talented chef and his team who has retained the Michelin star year after year and consistently deliver superb cookery.

Hiinds Head Royal Lounge Bray Berkshire velvet chairs wooden floors shotgun chandelier

The look now reflects its hunting lodge and coaching inn past, with a vibe that is elegantly eccentric with a nod to the many royal connections. The Royal Lounge (venue for Prince Philip’s stag do)– is a cocktail bar, with tweed and velvet furnishings, taxidermy and dim lighting. Think cool gentlemen’s club without the overflowing testosterone.

A right royal knees up is demanded in The Vicar’s Room – private dining with added drama.

The restaurant occupies the whole of the ground floor, a rich mix of wooden paneling, leather chairs, settles, fireplaces and parquet flooring. It’s relaxed, buzzy and the service is attentive, as you would expect from a starred gaff, but the surroundings are informal yet luxurious. The bar is also open for drinkers to pop in for a pint or glass of bubbles, and they have expanded the snack menu for people who are popping in after a dog walk or after a day at the office. For private parties you should book the dramatic Vicar’s Room (there’s no room charge), where you can dine surrounded by Queen Elizabeth I and Queen Mary.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Hinds head royal lounge coktail leather armchair

Do not miss the opportunity to grab a drink in The Royal Lounge – it’s theatrical and very cool. Aesthetically it is right up my street – shotgun chandeliers, Heston and his team immortalised in curtain fabric and cool artwork. The drinks menu is vast, craft beers, artisan gins (good to see Muddy favourite Berkshire Botanical on the bar shelf) and spirits, cocktails and mocktails that taste as good as the ones with booze.

In the restaurant we sat near the bar which is a smidge less formal than in the depths of main dining area. The snack menu has been expanded so you can nibble on one or two, order them all as a sharing small plat meal or pick and mix as a starter – which is exactly what I did. No trip to The Hind’s Head is complete without its signature Scotch egg served in a silver egg cup and mustard mayo, but we added ham hock croquette into the mix alongside the now much smaller the mushroom parfait.

It’s rich so its new petit proportions really worked. It reminds me of something of I’m A Celebrity…), pickled mushroom and grilled Campaillou is even better. A Vegan dish chosen by my carnivorous husband, the smoked mousse of pickled wild mushrooms and popped rice is a stunner. The fact it’s a vegan dish blow my tiny mind. The Scotch egg is always a joy to eat. How The Hind’s Head produce perfectly cooked eggs every single time is a mystery to me. It is nothing short of a culinary miracle.

Enough foodie flirting, let’s get down to business. While into tucked my pick n mix plates, my husband also tried the signature pea and ham soup. It’s light, smooth with with chunks of ham hock delivering a salty, meaty flavour punch.

THE HIND'S HEAD BRAY HESTON'S FISH AND CHIPs

Next up, Heston’s world famous fish and chips is back on the menu – it was haddock on the night we visited. I was asked skin on or off (for me its on, just the Heston intended) and it came with minted peas, curry sauce and chippy dip. Chippy dip? I’ve never tasted anything like it – it’s like the bottom of a chip bag in a sauce. The spray bottle of cider vinegar was nice touch. It sounds basic, but the execution was anything but.

The Hind's Head Bray STEAK AND BONE MARROW SAUCE

The OH went for the 28-day aged Hereford ribeye steak served with Heston’s famous triple cooked chips and Reform sauce – it’s a bit sweet, a bit sour. It shouldn’t work, but the fact he chose it over the bone marrow sauce says a lot. It’s a steak lovers night of passion. I thought Mr M was giving me all the heart eyes across the table. Apparently he only has eyes for the sauce. *Eye roll*.

Heston Hinds Head trifle — The Hind’s Head at Home – nothing ordinary about this trifle

For dessert, the chef sent put a surprise for us to share – a red wine slushy with a fancy millionaires shortbread and the signature trifle. The trifle had my heart, light and not too sweet, packed with lime and rhubarb flavours.

The wine list is also a foxy delight. There are loads to choose from by the glass and many surprises, restaurant manager Ellen always has a good recommendation so, if in doubt, ask. I actually went for the non alcoholic Rothaus pilsner. It’s a German beer and honestly I couldn’t tell the difference from it’s boozy cousins. It’s probably the best one I’ve tried (and I’ve sampled a fair few). They’re also big supporters of local producers, with Windsor & Eton Brewery beers on draft. I’m reliably told the Treason IPA is a delicious session ale.

OUT & ABOUT

Take a stroll (or a roll?) around the village. It won’t take you long – about 50 metres before you make it to Story on the high street, a tiny boutique that must do the most incredible trade with all the passing foodies. Fair play though, because it’s a little haven of great taste, with lovely jewellery, fashion and homewares. It’s a short walk to the river’s edge, but if you want to push up your daily step count, head down to Bray Lock and can do some lovely looping walks around Bray, Maidenhead and Windsor. For the more adventurous, there’s paddle boarding, windsurfing or kayaking on Bray Lake.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Foodies who want to experience a Heston Blumenthal’s world without choking on the bill. High quality lunchers (think good friend catch-ups or relaxed work lunches). Grab the girls for cocktails, date night with the other half or special occasion family get togethers. Kids are surprisingly well catered for.

Not for: Those who want a more formal white table cloth style approach to Michelin dining.

£££: As befits a Michelin restaurant, you can add a few quid onto each course. Bar snack from £5, starters from £14, mains £27 (and don’t forget to add your sides of fries and veggies to that price). It’s expensive for a ‘normal’ pub, but a fair price for Michelin Star food.

The Hind’s Head, High St, Bray, Berkshire SL6 2AB. Tel: 01628 626151.

Review: Heston Blumenthal’s gastropub the Hinds Head in Bray

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