Berkshire


<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-what-where">WHAT? WHERE?&nbsp;</h2>



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<p>Less than a four-hour flight from the UK, Essaouira is a picturesque whitewashed, wind-swept town on Morocco’s dramatic west coast, basking in 320 days of sunshine a year. Until recently the town was reached via a two-hour drive from Marrakech, however&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ryanair.com/flights/gb/en/flights-to-essaouira" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Ryanair</a>&nbsp;introduced direct flights last month making it a far more attractive weekend break option – transfers from airport to the ancient Medina take just 20 minutes.&nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-vibe">THE VIBE&nbsp;</h2>



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<p>An enchanting arty, boho escape fusing past and present perfectly by the seaside. Laidback, compared to Marrakech (think bustling souks but none of the aggressive selling), with a melting pot of cultures and characters, from locals in djellabas to loved-up couples, hippy backpackers and adventure-seeking families.&nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-things-to-do">THINGS TO DO&nbsp;</h2>



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<p>Shopping in Essaouira is irresistible. Even if you arrive thinking there’s no way you’ll be parting with Moroccan Dirhams in the souks and boutiques, you’ll inevitably find yourself at the airport laden with rugs and ceramics, trying to convince Ryanair baggage control it’s legit hand-luggage.</p>



<p>The best bargains can be found in the alleyways off the main shopping streets like Avenue Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah, be sure to carry cash as many of the stalls don’t accept card. While it’s fun to haggle in the souks, the joy of bargaining for silver tea pots and colourful slippers can start to wane, which is when the posher boutique stores with fixed prices suddenly become more appealing.&nbsp;</p>



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<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/boboutikcreations/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Bo Modagor Boutik</a>&nbsp;is a great option if you covet unique hand-embroidered cushion covers, boho kaftans, woven leather bags and silk scarves, but don’t fancy the hassle of haggling. However if you&nbsp;<em>do</em>&nbsp;want to practice the ancient art of negotiating, one of the friendliest places we found was an unnamed shop just across the rue from Bo Modgagor which is run by Mohammed who offers a great line in Berber jewellery, rugs, mint tea and football banter – Muddy bought a two-metre blue and white tassled throw for less than £20.</p>



<p>Browse Bayt Dakira on Rue Ziri Ben Attia, a Jewish museum and synagogue in the Medina’s Jewish Quarter offering a fascinating insight into the peaceful co-existence of Jews and Muslims historically in the region, including photographs, rare books and religious artefacts.&nbsp;</p>



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<p>Book a Moroccan cooking workshop (£38) at&nbsp;<a href="http://lateliermadada.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">L’Atelier</a>, housed in a former almond warehouse at the entrance to the Medina, where you can learn to whip up your own tajine (and make a decent mint tea) before eating the results washed down with a glass of local wine.</p>



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<p>Learn to surf, SUP or kitesurf with the friendly instructors at&nbsp;<a href="http://ion-club.net/">ION Club</a>, a 15-minute stroll from the Medina right on the beach by&nbsp;<a href="https://www.oceanvagabond.com/en/essaouira-morocco/restaurant/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Ocean Vagabond</a>&nbsp;cafe. Surf lessons (from £17), include board and wetsuit hire.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-scoff-quaff">SCOFF &amp; QUAFF</h2>



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<p>Climb the steep steps to rooftop restaurant&nbsp;<a href="https://en-gb.facebook.com/letarosessaouira/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Taros</a>&nbsp;for lunch. An Essaouira institution with a cascade of terraces overlooking the port, sea and main square and a menu full of interesting, good value choices, including plates of sea urchin and sardines.&nbsp;</p>



<p>For a side of entertainment with your meal, hit&nbsp;<a href="https://en-gb.facebook.com/CaravaneCafeArt/">Caravane Cafe Art</a>&nbsp;on Rue du Qadi Ayad, where magicians and musicians appear alongside heavenly slow cooked leg of lamb in a stunning courtyard setting.&nbsp;</p>



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<p>And for the fanciest food in the Medina, book a table at&nbsp;<a href="https://madada.com/en/gallery/restaurant-gallery/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Le Table Madada</a>, the stunning restaurant of riad Madada Mogador where dishes like ceviché de poisson are served beneath stone arches with a colourful cocktail.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-where-to-stay"><strong>WHERE TO STAY&nbsp;</strong></h2>



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<p><a href="https://jardindesdouars.com/en/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Jardin des Douars</a>&nbsp;has to be a contender for best hotel in Morocco. Around 20 minutes from the Medina (they have a shuttle bus for transfers), it’s hidden away down a dusty track and has such a low-key entrance it’s hard to imagine the oasis that lies within.&nbsp;</p>



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<p>Built in the style of a Ksar (fortified village), the terracotta-hued main house, rooms and villas, made from traditional materials, are a study in how to marry local craftsmanship with 21st Century luxury. Every inch of this hotel is a feast for the eyes – curvaceous walls and staircases, enormous circular rattan lampshades, jade tiles lining the swimming pools (there are adult and family pools, the latter is currently being revamped), decorative handmade rugs and vivid pink bougainvillea and lush green palms brighten every corner.&nbsp;</p>



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<p>It’s as if someone’s turned up the technicolour and, alongside the delicious Moroccan cuisine, friendly staff and sunshine, it’s the dazzling array of colours you’ll miss most when you land back in the grey UK.&nbsp;</p>



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<p>Rooms vary from Choukran (which means ‘thanks’ in Arabic), romantic boltholes with a double bed, Moroccan art work, wood ceilings and terrace, through to the Royale Suite, a dramatic space with two bedrooms and a large lounge featuring a fire place, L-shaped sofa and soaring ceiling from which an assortment of enormous lamps dangle. Furnishings are tasteful and tactile, you’ll want to rush up to everything and run your hands over the artfully distressed wardrobes, tassled wool bed throws, polished wood writing desk and feel the warm tiles beneath your feet on the private outside terraces.</p>



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<p>Dining is a treat too, whether a tender chicken tajine served in the low-lit atmospheric restaurant at night, or a Moroccan pancake doused in local honey and a glass of fresh orange juice at breakfast. Don’t miss the Sunday barbecue served buffet-style on the tranquil terrace, with a rainbow of salads and grilled fresh fish and meats to try.&nbsp;</p>



<p>A small spa is the icing on the cake, Muddy enjoyed a Relaxing Massage with Argan oil infused with ginger – you can pick up a bottle of Morocco’s coveted Vitamin E-packed super oil in the spa’s beautiful little shop. There’s also a hammam if you want to try a treatment with black soap that’s abrasive enough to be character-building yet leaves your skin silky smooth.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-muddy-verdict">THE MUDDY VERDICT&nbsp;</h2>



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<p>North Africa’s about as exotic as it gets for a weekend break. Essaouira offers an amazing variety of holiday choices, whether you want to shop til you drop, learn to surf, get romantic in a riad, chill on the beach or have a restorative spa getaway.</p>



<p><strong>GOOD FOR</strong></p>



<p>Pretty much everyone. Families will appreciate the car-free Medina and friendly locals who all seem to love kids. The town feels safe and welcoming for solo travellers, while couples are going to adore all the romance, from epic sea views to candle-lit restaurants and flower-filled hidden courtyards.&nbsp;</p>



<p><strong>NOT GOOD FOR</strong></p>



<p>If you like everything clean and sanitised, then the Medina might not be for you – it’s a living, working town not a museum, where stray cats sit on piles of rugs, meat hangs from hooks on butcher’s stalls and the port has a fishy aroma…There isn’t access for wheelchair users in some of the upper floor restaurants and riads.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-how-to-get-there">HOW TO GET THERE</h2>



<p><a href="https://www.ryanair.com/flights/gb/en/flights-to-essaouira" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Ryanair</a> flies to Essaouira twice a week, (Tues &amp; Sat) from £14.99 one-way,  (£29.98 return) in January 2023. <a href="https://jardindesdouars.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Jardin des Douars</a> has rooms from £140pn, including breakfast.</p>


Hello sunshine! Bag a bargain winter break in Essaouira

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