THE LOWDOWN

Coworth Park needs no introduction (now forever known as the place Prince Harry bedded down the night before his wedding), but its ridiculously talented chef Adam Smith is stepping into the spotlight. Despite being the culinary chief at this elegant, modern country house estate for six years, achieving the hotel’s first Michelin star in 2018, his name only appeared over the door of the hotel’s flagship fine dining restaurant just shy of three years ago.

Woven by Adam Smith Coworth Park Ascot Berkshire

It’s bye bye Restaurant Coworth Park and its copper halo, and hello Woven by Adam Smith – a ridiculously stylish, cocooning restaurant, serving exceptional plates of British posh nosh. It currently retains its Michelin star, and has even recently been awarded an extremely rare 5 AA Rosettes, only awarded when the cooking compares with the best in the world. *Dusts shoulders. To say this working class chef from Birmingham has done good, is an understatement. But, boy, has he taken the opportunity to have a restaurant in his own name and run with it. It’s an experience like no other in Berkshire. Spoiler alert! This review is going to be glowing, because there is literally no other way to describe it.

THE VIBE

Woven by Adam Smith Coworth Park Sunningdale Ascot Berkshire

When you cross the aristocratic threshold of Coworth Park you enter a light-filled, stylish space with delicious views across the hotel’s famous meadow and formal gardens. Work your way around to the bar, pass under its fabulous LOVE chandelier and you arrive at Woven by Adam Smith. It’s then you realise you’re not in Kansas anymore as you’re transported to another world – a place where the lights are dimmed, the restaurant’s drenched in autumnal colours and textures, that yet has Coworth Park’s DNA, but with even more wow. Martin Hulbert Design was the interior force behind Woven and was also the man behind Coworth Park’s makeover 11 years ago.

Effortless style doesn’t come cheap, but, boy, can you see money has been spent – and wisely. From the beautiful, illuminated golden looms on the ceiling and mid-century style pendant lights hovering over each table and illuminating the totally realistic looking ceramic conkers. It’s all breathtaking, considered and very intimate. A warm, cosy and subtle space that would look just peachy if it was plonked in Mayfair or Manhattan. Lucky Berkshire, is all I can say.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Woven by Adam Smith Coworth Park Sunningdale Ascot Berkshire vread course

Let’s get down to the serious business of the food and drink. Lunch will set you back £80pp. Add £65pp for the wine pairing. Dinner is £130pp, plus £80 for wine, and this is how it drill. You’re handed a menu to pick three dishes – one from the ‘Larder’, one from the ‘Stove’, and one from the ‘Pastry’. Starter, main, pudding, essentially. You will automatically be sent all six of the ‘Pantry’ dishes. We went for dinner, which includes a bread course! A carb lover’s paradise that turns the humble loaf into a culinary event, with different varieties and a selection of dips and butter to slather and mop – lobster oil and cherry (amazing), onion chutney (yum) and Jeruselum artichoke purée (delish). Heaven.

Woven by Adam Smith Coworth Park Sunningdale Ascot Berkshire OYSTER

The Pantry tasters included a gold caviar tart, coronation chicken, Highland wagu, Dorset oyster, jellied Devon eel and avocado with quinoa basil and yuzu. Every mouthful was a party in the mouth. The caviar tart and Highland wagu were my absolute favourite, but any chef that gets me to happily eat eel soup deserves a medal – and a Michelin star. The eel soup could not be further away from the jellied East End version.

Next up was the bread course (epic), then we moved onto the Larder. I chose the BBQ scallop, Yorkshire rhubarb, finger lime and XO. My husband plumped for stuffed morels. I’m running out of adjectives to really describe just how phenomenal this meal was. From the Stove I chose venison (from the Sanderson Estate, no less), chef also sent out an extra course for us to try the John Dory, before treating us to the trio of desserts. I was desperate to sample the ridiculous selection of cheese, but I’d reached peak full. It’s a great excuse to come back another day.

Woven by Adam Smith Coworth Park Sunningdale Ascot Berkshire turbot

The dinner was an impressive 3.5 hours – and the time flew by. The restaurant was busy, the atmosphere humming on a Saturday night – although there was quite a party going on in the Drawing Room.

Woven by Adam Smith Coworth Park Sunningdale Ascot Berkshire dessert

As for the drinks, an equal match to the food. I was driving, which can mean you’re saddled with lacklustre choices. But the sommelier, went above and beyond to match my booze-free drinks to every course, including a surprisingly very nice alcohol free sparkling rosé, Wild Idol. The husband worked through some exceptional English reds and whites, and the rather foxy King’s Negroni cocktail in honour of King Charles’s coronation was a knockout.

Woven by Adam Smith Coworth Park Sunningdale Ascot Berkshire NEGROni

Woven by Adam Smith is all about memories that create the tapestry of our lives. The dishes are all inspired by Adam’s life – the people and places that feature in each chapter. The food that pirouettes out of his kitchen are designed to make memories for you – I defy you not be wowed. There was one sweet at the end that wasn’t my bag, but I’m cool with that. I can’t wait to come back.

PILLOW TALK

Muddy Stilettos Rachel Jane Coworth Park Sunningdale Ascot Berkshire branch four poster bed reading paper

There are 30 rooms in the Mansion House – all grand and spacious; 40 further rooms are split between cottages and stables. All slightly different, but share the same DNA. For the ultimate hideaway (much loved by rock stars and the rich), you can book one of two three-bedroom private residences: the new North Lodge or Dower House. You want for nothing. So if you’re looking for an otherworldly, ‘first-class all the way, baby’ night away, this is it.

Alas, last time I looked I wasn’t royalty, a rock star or mega rich so instead I can tell you about the Mansion House Suite (above) I have previously stayed in – which was bigger than my first London flat. What’s not to love about a funky four poster made to look like branches and a TV that rises out of a cabinet with the push of a button. Loved the roll top copper bath with views across the meadow, plus there was a living room with mini bar and treats. Comfort, style or service are all first class – as you would expect from a hotel of this calibre.

OUT & ABOUT

ascot-coworth-park-spa-double-treatment-room-landscape

Do not leave without Coworth Park’s dreamy spa. If you exhaust the walks, bike rides and horsey antics then leave the estate to explore a little further afield. Ascot Racecourse, Windsor Castle, Legoland Windsor and Windsor Great Park are all nearby. Go aaaaaargh at Swinley Forest and swing through the tree top at Go Ape. Itching to give your credit card a battering? Whizz into Windsor’s Royal Arcade and for vintage finds, Thames Hospice in Windsor is a hidden gem that can be a treasure trove of pre-loved designer gear. Alternatively, for designer outlet heaven, Bicester Village is just over an hour away.

woven by adam smith coworth park best restaurants ascot

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Anyone with tastebuds. Whether you’re a foodie, looking for a special occasion restaurant or love the finer things in life, Woven by Adam Smith is one of the most exciting restaurants to open in Berkshire, dare I say the UK.

Not for: If you’re a fussy eater or ‘like what you like’ and rarely deviate from the script, you may struggle with the unapologetically chefy menu.

The Damage: Lunch is £95pp and dinner is £165pp – and worth every penny. Add an extra £110 for the wine flight.

Woven by Adam Smith, Coworth Park, Blacknest Road, Sunningdale, Ascot SL5 7SE

Review: Woven by Adam Smith at Coworth Park, Ascot

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