THE LOWDOWN

Modern, poised, and enticing, fine dining destination Damson Restaurant swung open their doors last September, following year-long renovations to turn what used to be a local country pub into a deliciously urbane space. The man behind it all? Chef Henry Kremer-Ireson, who you may recognise from the highly regarded Henry & Joe’s in Newbury, and who previously helped take nearby The Woodspeen to dizzying Michelin star heights.

Located in a remote but charming rural village, there’s not much in the way of passing trade in Winterbourne, near Newbury. However, it’s only testament to the fact Damson is well underway in establishing itself as a foodie terminus people will travel for miles to get their chops on.

THE VIBE

If there’s anywhere you’d want to retreat to on a freezing winter’s night, it’s here, where the roaring fire is like a welcome embrace. Stepping inside the restaurant you’re greeted by a bright and modish open plan kitchen where the diligent chefs take centre stage. There’s something so nice about watching a chef hard at work prepping the food you’re about to enjoy, because really, why should they be cooped up behind the scenes? They’re the magic makers after all.

The rest of the interior is tasteful and hygge in style with sophisticated exposed brick, soft seating, variations of green hues throughout, and woodland-inspired artwork adorning the walls – a gentle nod to its rural locale. With just 26 covers, the restaurant is incredibly intimate and relaxed, split into two different areas to compound a sense of homeliness. Plus, the lighting is ambient enough to see what you’re actually devouring. It’s fancy minus the pretentiousness which was Henry’s aim here.

Not only are the staff immaculately presented, they are friendly, attentive, and passionate. They know what they’re talking about and are a credit to the team. Although with a humble and down-to-earth approach, you can expect Michelin twinkler levels of service. The moment you sit down, you’re given a little stall for your handbag (making me instantly regret not bringing my fancier alternative) and if you nip off to the loo, you’ll return to find your napkin has been neatly folded in front of you.

The clientele on the night were a well-heeled crowd who clearly enjoy the finer things in life (I mean, who doesn’t?). There were couples on romantic date nights, but also a large group of friends too who had opted to revel in a Saturday night of culinary splendour.

SCOFF & QUAFF

At Damson, you won’t find a hodgepodge of items on the menu. Instead exclusively on offer are expertly contrived and regularly changing set tasting menus – a seven courser for Friday and Saturday nights, and a five piece option for Wednesdays, Thursdays, and lunchtimes. It’s ingredient-led fine dining using the highest quality seasonal produce and impactful techniques to enhance flavour.

Eco-conscious eaters will love the fact sustainability is placed front and centre, with a pinpoint focus on limiting food wastage. Damson are even currently in the process of creating spaces outside to grow their own produce. Talk about eating fresh.

So first up, we began our culinary adventure with the snacks – all made from the said food wastage created from other dishes on the menu. We had local venison tartar croustade, charcoal emulsion, and pickled onion, puffed cod skin, cod brandade, and scallop roe, and Damson marmite and truffle gougère. With every single bitesize chunk came a medley of flavours that made your taste buds do the Macarena.

The Damson marmite was my personal fave, made from left over sourdough bread. Truffle and cheese is an unbeatable combo and here it was executed beautifully. Actual heaven.

From then on, every course was like Christmas come early. I didn’t know what to expect, but each one was a welcome, and exquisitely presented delight. Next up was seabass crudo, salsify, All Angels, apple, and shellfish sauce. The flavours were harmonious, and the undertone of the sparkling wine really came through to give that extra kick. As with all their fish and meat, it was served medium rare and cooked to perfection.

Each portion was by no means lacking in size like they sometimes are with tasting menus. The next course, Josper barbecued carrots, smoked cod roe emulsion, sea buckthorn and malt crumb, was generous and lipsmackingly good in equal measure. It was clear an incredible amount of care and attention had been poured into every morsel – seasoned with expert precision with creamy flavours and an abundance of complimentary textures.

Okay, disclaimer, bread is my weakness. Some argue it’s a waste stuffing yourself up with the good stuff. But not here. Damon’s sourdough is fresh and homemade, accompanied by cultured butter and a beautiful cheese and mushroom pâté, served in a well presented rustic wooden box filled with grain. Rip it apart, and hot steam rises into the air. I could have happily smashed through the entire loaf had another five courses not been in the pipeline.

What I particularly love about Damson is how the level of detail is second to none, even down to the careful choice of crockery in which the food is served – different for every course. Everything has been well thought through in consideration of the dining experience on offer, giving it that little extra special touch.

The next course was partridge served with mushroom and black garlic ‘risotto’, quince, and puffed buckwheat. I’d never had partridge before. Meanwhile, my fellow foodie critic had, yet had never liked it before, finding it too gamey. However, she was shocked to find she absolutely loved this, so much so, it ended up being one of our favourite courses. The meat was tender, and the mushroom ‘risotto’ rich and so flavoursome. The citrusy undertones of the quince was divine paired with the mushroom. A truly seasonal dish for this time of year.

Yep, we’ve arrived people. After battling our way (yes, we’re so noble) through five starters, it was now time for the mains. There were two options on offer, and I opted for venison loin and black pudding, charcoal pumpkin, damson, and yeast. No exaggeration when I say it was to die for. It may have been a small chunk of meat, but it packed one hell of a punch. Incredibly flavourful – and that goes for every component. The venison was succulent, and the black pudding (something I wouldn’t normally touch) was powerful and moreish.

My foodie friend had halibut which came with Jerusalem artichoke, girolles in truffle and onion sauce. There was no concern about polishing off the plate here. She loved it. To be honest, I think we barely said a word during this course because we were just so blown away.

Oh come on, it would be rude not to go for the optional cheese course (a £20 supplement for two to share) which comprised of a festive mince pie, which I could happily have devoured 10 of, Barkham blue cheese, and whipped buttermilk. It was not what we expected, but it worked so incredibly well together. The sweetness of the pie and buttermilk with the deep, mellow tang of blue cheese was the combo I never thought I needed.

The pre-dessert was next: apple and quince crumble with vanilla custard. It was everything you’d want from a mini crumble and I loved it. I’m sorry, but can we also make pre-desserts a thing in everyday life please because one pud just doesn’t cut the mustard after this.

Side note: there was no palette cleanser course for the discerning fine dining connoisseurs among you. But it wasn’t necessarily missed.

Now, it was time for the grand final – the puds. You got a choice of two and we went for one of each (naturally). The chestnut mousse, caramelised white chocolate, pear and Douglas fir was divine. Silky smooth and weirdly festive. With the sprinkling of Douglas fir it was like guzzling down a hunk of Christmas. No complaints.

The pumpkin parfait, spiced biscuit, pickled pumpkin, and bitter orange slices was nice too. The sharpness of the orange and pickled pumpkin paired with the parfait was dreamy. Tangy and delish.

And with that, we completed our mega foodie marathon that felt like anything but a chore. Despite all that glorious grub, I wasn’t even at the uncomfortable point of implosion. Surprising, I know. Nor did I beg for mercy when the dainty petit fours in the perfectly sized form of lemon merengue pies arrived after. It was just the right amount of food paced perfectly across four hours of grazing.

All in all, the meal ended up being a 10-course whopper if you included the petit fours and optional cheese course. And as if we needed anything more to stuff our faces with, with the bill came a batch of homemade gingerbread for the road – a lovely touch that’s sure to soften the blow when you read the three digit small print.

It’s worth noting the drinks list is also top notch with cocktails, an extensive wine list, beers, ciders, and more. But I didn’t expect anything less. The wine glasses were mahoosive to let the wine breathe, and complemented the wave of dishes perfectly.

This was genuinely up there as one of the best dining experiences I’ve ever had, and since my visit I haven’t stopped raving about it. It was a truly unforgettable foodie experience I just know I’ll be talking about for years to come. There’s little doubt Damson is one to watch on the culinary scene with its attention to detail, expertly married flavours, and first class service. My advice? Get in there quick before this secret gem is a secret no more.

ACCESSIBILITY

The restaurant itself is all on one level with paved access from the outside that’s wheelchair friendly. Tables are spacious to accommodate and there is a disabled toilet too.

OUT & ABOUT

Located on the Newbury fringes, hit the shops for shopping all your big name brands, plus cutesy boutiques. If you can coordinate your visit with one of Newbury Racecourse‘s race days, do it. The Corn Exchange is brilliant for catching fab music, comedy and theatre productions, as is Watermill Theatre, just down the road from Damson. National Trust beauty, Basildon Park, will help you work up an appetite around its 400 acre grounds. Plus, a stop off at Highclere Castle (home to Downton Abbey) isn’t out of the question either if you’re pairing your road trip with a big dollop of cultural sightseeing.

THE VERDICT

Damson Restaurant Winterbourne Ellie Ball Journalist

Good for: Foodies! You’ll feel like you’ve been to heaven and back again. Whether for an unforgettable special occasion or a treat yourself splurge, gourmands won’t regret eating here. There’s also vegan and veggie taster menus too.

Not for: Kids. No menu to cater for little mouths, but to be honest, it’s not their scene. Leave them at home for an adult only fine dining extravaganza.

The damage: Pass the smelling salts – it’s pricey, but well worth it when weighing up the quality and experience on offer. The 7-course tasting menu (Fri & Sat) is £95pp, three course set dinner is £60pp (Thu – Sat), and lunch is £36 for two courses or £40 for three (Fri & Sat).

Words by Ellie Ball

Damson Restaurant, Winterbourne, Berkshire, RG20 8BB

Review: Damson Restaurant, Winterbourne

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