Comforting classics from The Pie Room
Ooh, is there anything more satisfying than good flaky pastry? These two warming recipes from Calum Franklin's new cookbook The Pie Room will take you into autumn and beyond.
If anyone is qualified to share his pastry expertise, it’s the man single-handedly responsible for reviving London’s pie scene, chef Calum Franklin. He may be Executive Head Chef at the swanky Holborn Dining Room, but you won’t need to travel into the capital to sample his rough puff – his brand new book The Pie Room means you can test his recipes right in your own kitchen. Here are two of our classic favourites just in time for autumn…
The Ultimate Sausage Roll
- 400g rough puff pastry
- 2 egg yolks beaten with 2 teaspoons water, for brushing
- pinch of black sesame seeds pinch of white sesame seeds
- Chutney, to serve
For the filling
- 700g Cumberland sausages, skins removed
- 150g streaky bacon, finely chopped
- 25g thyme, leaves picked
1⁄3 teaspoon table salt
large pinch of freshly ground
- black pepper
- large plastic piping bag (optional)
Line a large baking tray with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry out to 5mm thick in a 40cm x 25cm rectangle. Slide the rolled-out pastry onto the lined tray and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the sausagemeat, bacon, thyme, salt and pepper into a bowl and mix well with your hands. Fill a large plastic piping bag with the sausagemeat filling. If you don’t have a piping bag, shape the filling into a 6cm wide sausage and wrap tightly in clingfilm, firmly twisting the ends. Chill the filling in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
Remove the rolled-out pastry from the refrigerator and dust off any excess flour from the surface. Leave the pastry on the parchment paper.
Using kitchen scissors, snip the tip of the piping bag to make a 5cm wide opening. Working from one end of the pastry rectangle, slowly pipe the sausagemeat filling down the length of the pastry 6cm inside one edge. Alternatively, remove the clingfilm from the sausagemeat, unwrapping it over the pastry rectangle, and place the filling 6cm inside one edge of the pastry.
Lightly brush the larger exposed area of pastry all over with egg wash, leaving the narrow 6cm border clear. Fold the egg-washed pastry over the filling to meet the narrow border, align the pastry edges and press firmly together.
Lightly dust the tines of a fork with flour and tap off any excess. Working down the length of the seam, firmly press the ends of the fork into the pastry to leave an impression of the tines. Whenever necessary, dust the fork with more flour to stop it sticking to the pastry.
Lightly brush the sausage roll all over with egg wash and return to the refrigerator for 10 minutes to allow the egg wash to dry. Brush a second layer of egg wash over the sausage roll and then, using a sharp knife, lightly score the top of the pastry with diagonal lines all the way down its length. (This gives the pastry a little stretching room and stops it from tearing open at the seam.) Return the sausage roll to the refrigerator to chill for a further 10 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 190°C fan/210°C/gas mark 61⁄2.
Trim a little off the fluted seam of the pastry to neaten it into a straight edge, then brush a final layer of egg wash all over the sausage roll. Sprinkle the
black and white sesame seeds along the top of the roll. Pop the tray into the preheated oven and bake the sausage roll for 25 minutes. Check the internal temperature of the filling with a digital probe thermometer – you are looking for 75°C or above. If necessary, return the sausage roll to the oven and check the temperature again every 5 minutes until it reaches 75°C. Alternatively, insert a metal skewer into the centre of the sausage roll and then press it against your hand – it should be very hot to the touch.
Remove the tray from the oven and transfer the sausage roll to a wire cooling rack. Leave to cool for 10 minutes before cutting the sausage roll with a serrated knife into eight equal slices. Serve warm with spoonfuls of chutney.
Glazed Apple Tart
- 300g classic puff pastry (or shop-bought)
- 200g frangipane (see below)
- 80g caster sugar
- 80g unsalted butter, softened
- 6–8 Pink Lady or Granny Smith apples
- 20g icing sugar
- clotted cream, to serve
Line a baking tray with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry into a large circle about 5mm thick. Slide the rolled-out pastry onto the lined baking tray and rest in the refrigerator for 15 minutes or in the freezer for 10 minutes. Remove the tray from the refrigerator or freezer. Trim the edges of the pastry into a neat circle that measures 24cm in diameter and return to the refrigerator or freezer.
Once chilled, remove the pastry from the refrigerator or freezer, and preheat the oven to 185°C fan/200°C/gas mark 6. With the pastry still on the lined baking tray, and leaving a border of 2cm around the edge, spread around 200g of the frangipane evenly across the pastry.
Using a pastry brush, mix the caster sugar and softened butter together to make a paste.
Peel and core the apples. Using a mandoline, slice the apples to 2mm thick. Take just over one-quarter of the slices and fan them out in a circle around the outer edge, keeping in line with the edge of the frangipane. Roughly brush the apples with some of the butter mixture.
Repeat with the remaining apple slices and butter mixture to create concentric circles until the pastry is covered. Make sure the top layer of apple slices is evenly coated with the butter mixture.
Place the tray in the preheated oven and bake the tart for 30 minutes or until the apples are starting to caramelise and the pastry is beginning to crisp up.
Remove the tray from the oven. Using a sieve, dust the tart with the icing sugar and then lay another sheet of parchment paper over the top of the apples. Take a second baking tray and lay it on top of that parchment paper. Using a dish towel or oven gloves to protect your hands, quickly flip the tart over so the apples are now facing downwards on the new tray. Lightly press down the top tray and then remove it and the original parchment paper. Return the tart to the oven for a further 20 minutes.
Remove the tart from the oven. This time place a serving plate or platter on top of the pastry, and then flip the tart again. Check the apples are evenly glazed and caramelised. If it needs a little longer, flip the tart back again and return it to the oven for a further 10 minutes. Serve warm with spoonfuls of clotted cream.
- 225g butter, softened
- 225g caster sugar
- 1 vanilla pod, deseeded,
- seeds retained
- 5 medium-sized eggs
- 225g ground almonds
Beat the butter, sugar and vanilla seeds together until the butter has turned pale and creamy. Add one egg at a time, whisking until each is fully incorporated before adding another.
Once all the eggs are incorporated, use a large metal spoon to fold in the almonds until well mixed.
The Pie Room by Calum Franklin (Bloomsbury Absolute, £26) is out now. Photography by John Carey.